While both of these support a wide variety of modern Toyota vehicles like your 2024+ Land Cruiser / Tacoma / 2025+ 4Runner, please read on.

Purchase the ENA-2T3 here.
Purchase the ENA-3T3 here.

🔊 What are these amps?

Both ENA-2T3 and ENA-3T3 belong to Beat-Sonic’s “Encore Alpha” line — compact, plug-and-play amplifiers designed to upgrade a vehicle’s factory sound system without needing to replace the head unit or speakers. 

Their common goals: improve clarity, increase volume and bass, and deliver a richer, fuller audio experience while retaining OEM integration (controls, wiring harness, etc.). 

⚙️ Key Specifications Compared

🎯 Where Each Amplifier Excels

✅ When to choose ENA-2T3

• You just want a straightforward, noticeable upgrade to your factory sound without altering the system — more clarity, better dynamics, stronger bass and volume — and you don’t plan to add a subwoofer or additional amp. Many users report that ENA-2T3 “installs in minutes” and drastically improves sound quality, even on modest speaker setups. 

• If you are using a factory system (even JBL-equipped ones), and want minimal risk and minimal complexity. 

• It’s often promoted as the “safe bet” for those who want a clean, factory-friendly audio boost without extra gear.

✅ When to choose ENA-3T3

• You want more power — ENA-3T3 delivers a slight bump (50 W vs 45 W) which can translate into cleaner sound at higher volumes, or better overall headroom. 

• You plan to expand your audio system later — maybe add a subwoofer or an external amp. The built-in RCA outputs (line-level) make that possible without needing external converters or complicated wiring.

• You want flexibility and future-proofing. Even if you don’t add extra gear immediately, having the subwoofer outputs gives you that option later.

🔍 Real-World Considerations & Community Feedback

• For users just wanting to “wake up” the factory system and make music sound more dynamic, ENA-2T3 often does the job — many describe the difference as “clearer vocals, more defined bass, richer mids and highs” with minimal installation effort. 

• If you foresee adding a subwoofer or intend to keep the system for a long time, ENA-3T3’s extra features and flexibility tend to make it more “future-proof,” even if the immediate difference (compared to ENA-2T3) is modest. 

🧩 Verdict: Which Amp for Which Use-Case

• Use ENA-2T3 if you want a simple, reliable, plug-and-play audio boost — a “set it and forget it” upgrade with minimal fuss. Great for everyday driving, moderate audio expectations, and stock speaker systems.

• Use ENA-3T3 if you want more flexibility, more power, and the ability to expand your system later (e.g. subwoofer or additional amplifier). It’s slightly more capable now — and more adaptable for future upgrades.

If I were advising a friend: if this is their first audio upgrade and they just want a noticeable improvement to the factory stereo — go with ENA-2T3 for simplicity. If they’re thinking long-term, want to tinker or possibly add a subwoofer — ENA-3T3 is worth the (slightly) extra cost.

The 2025 Toyota 4Runner SR5 and many other trim levels come equipped with comfortable factory cloth seats. While cloth feels nice, it stains easily, especially if your 4Runner is a daily driver or sees heavy use, like trips to the gym. Sweat, spilled coffee, and soft drinks can ruin the original upholstery quickly. Installing a quality set of seat covers, like the EKR covers, helps protect your investment and makes cleanup much simpler. This guide walks you through the complete, detailed process for installing these covers on both the front and rear seats of your vehicle.

Purchase

Click here to purchase.  

Getting Ready for Installation

Installing seat covers requires a good amount of pulling, pushing, and tugging. Doing this work in a cool climate will save you effort and sweat. The overall installation is straightforward, but it takes patience.

Understanding the EKR Kit Components

When you receive your EKR seat covers, you will find that all of the individual components are clearly labeled for placement. This labeling is key to making sure you use the correct piece for the correct seat section.

The kit also includes installation instructions and a small, handy pusher tool. This tool helps tuck material into tight spaces.

Important Safety Tip: Be careful when using the pusher tool. The tip is not sharp, but if you apply too much force, you can accidentally poke a hole through the seat cover material. Use the tool gently to bunch up and guide the fabric. Sometimes, reaching with your fingers is safer and more effective than forcing the tool.

Why You Need Seat Covers

If you use your 4Runner daily, stains are inevitable. Whether it is sweat after a workout, coffee spills, or stains left by children in the back, cloth seats attract and hold messes. Cleaning stains from factory cloth can be difficult. Seat covers offer a protective layer that is easy to wipe down and clean, saving your original seats from permanent damage.

Installing the Front Seat Covers

The front seat installation involves several detailed steps for both the bottom cushion and the seat back.

Preparing the Front Seat

Before starting, slide the front seat all the way forward. This gives you maximum access to the area underneath and behind the seat.

If you have aftermarket rear seat footwell lighting installed, you may need to temporarily remove this to make room.

Locate the small strap underneath the seat and remove it. This strap holds the bottom of the seat back in place. Taking it out allows you to lift the seat back slightly. Lifting the seat back makes it much easier to reach underneath and pull the seat cover straps through to the back side.

Covering the Headrests

The headrests are the easiest part to cover and are a great place to start.

1. Tilt the seat back forward so you can easily access and remove the headrest.
2. Take the headrest cover. The zippered area should face the back.
3. Insert the headrest inside the cover.
4. Gently tug the material into place.
5. Start zipping the cover closed. If you feel tension, pull the material slightly to ease the strain on the zipper.
6. Once zipped, the headrest cover is complete.

Installing the Front Bottom Cushion

Identify the cover labeled "first row, right bottom." You will need to unhook all three straps attached to this cover before beginning.

1. Position the Cover: Place the seat cover over the bottom cushion.

2. Tucking the Sides: Push the sides of the cover (the "wings") down and inside the plastic trim as much as possible. When using the pusher tool, bunch up the material first to reinforce it, then push. You are wrapping the cover around the seat structure.

3. Pulling Through: Reach through the middle area of the seat. Gently push the material through to the backside. Once you reach it from the other side, pull the cover through. Do not pull too tightly yet; save the final adjustments for the end.

4. Securing the Front: You will notice some bunching near the front of the seat. To relax this, pull down firmly on the front of the seat cover. This should smooth out the material.

5. Using Straps and Hooks: You will have several straps and one hook to manage.

   • Front Straps: There is a center strap and two outer straps (sometimes called "wings"). These need to be pushed through the center gap to the back. Look underneath the seat to find a secure point to wrap these straps around for tension. They often come with a small zip tie loop to make grabbing them easier from the back.
   • Side Hook: On the outer corner of the seat, there is a small hook. Look underneath the seat and find a point to clip this hook to, pulling the material all the way across the bottom for tension.
   • Manual Seat Bar: If your 4Runner has a manual seat adjustment bar, make sure the straps pass above this bar.

6. Buckling in the Back: Once the three main straps are routed to the back, weave them through the corresponding buckles. Pull these straps as tight as you can.

7. Final Tension: Reach under the seat again and pull forward on the straps to ensure they are taut.

8. Bottom Straps: Use the final straps (the ones you pulled through) to wrap around structural components beneath the seat. This pulls down on the cover, ensuring a tight fit.

9. Adjust and Conform: Use your hands to smooth and conform the cover to the shape of the seat.

Installing the Front Back Rest

The seat back cover is identified by the pocket (which faces the rear) and the airbag tag (which faces the outside).

1. Throw Over: Toss the cover over the seat back.

2. Airbag Flap: The cover is designed to accommodate the side airbag by leaving a flap of material near the outside edge. You will tuck this flap in later once the main cover is pulled down.

3. Use the Zipper: Open the zipper along the side to make it easier to pull the cover down over the seat.

4. Headrest Posts: Guide the cover around the headrest attachment points using the provided holes.

5. Pulling Down: Continue pulling the cover down the seat back. Zip up the side zipper once the two sides meet. Tuck in any excess zipper material at the end.

6. Tucking the Center: Like the bottom cushion, push the middle part of the material all the way through the seat gap to the back. It may help to fold the "wings" in and push them toward the center before pushing them through. Once through, pull them out toward the corners.

7. Securing the Back: You will need to strap the cover to the hooks beneath the seat. Use the tool to tuck in all the extra material so it hides behind the plastic trim.

   • The felt padding/plastic tabs from the factory seat need to be removed or temporarily moved.
   • The EKR cover includes a plastic piece or tab that tucks into the plastic trim on both sides.
   • There is also a small hook string attached to the cover. You can hook this to the same mounting points used for the factory felt pad for security.

8. Final Adjustments: Do a final tug and push to ensure the material is straight, especially around the airbag flap. Reinstall the headrest.

Covering the Armrest

The armrest cover is the final front component. It often has a little foam padding inside.

1. Identify Front vs. Rear: The rear of the armrest cover has a visible seam running along the back.
2. Slip Over: Slip the cover over the armrest.
3. Securing the Middle: The cover has an elastic band in the middle. Put the armrest in the "up" position, and pull the material down and back through the bottom of the armrest opening.
4. Wrapping the Front: Loop the front material all the way over the handle portion. Pull all edges around the side to minimize the visibility of the elastic band.

Installing the Rear Seat Covers

The rear seats typically use a 60/40 split configuration. You will need to install the back rest first, then the bottom cushion, following the universal instructions.

Preparing the Rear Seats

If you have aftermarket seat back protectors, remove these before starting. Note that the plastic panels around the seats scratch easily, so be mindful of anything you are wearing (like watches or bracelets) that might rub against them.

Rear Back Rest Installation (Single Seat Side)

Identify the correct cover; it should be labeled "second row back rest." For the single seat, this is usually the driver's side.

1. Open the Zipper: The cover has a zipper on the side. Open it a little to gain some slack.
2. Position: The flat side of the cover goes to the back.
3. Headrest Mounts: Locate the two small holes on top and tuck the cover around the headrest mounts.
4. Tether Mounts: The cover needs to account for the tether mounts (if you use them). If you use ISOFIX tethers at the bottom, you may choose to leave the plastic covers on the top tethers and simply cover them up, as they usually flap down and tuck in.
5. Zipping and Tucking: Pull the zipper down to lock it in place. Then, tuck the bottom of the cover material toward the back, similar to the front seats. There is often more room here than in the front seats. Use your tool to ensure the corners are tucked completely.
6. Velcro: The cover has Velcro strips. There will be a strip of cloth covering the Velcro to protect it during shipping. Put this protective cloth below the Velcro or cut it off. Hide the Velcro strip by tucking it into the seat gap.
7. Final Check: Ensure all slack is pulled out and the cover is smooth.

Rear Bottom Cushion Installation (Single Seat Side)

1. Straps: Undo the straps on the bottom cover. These straps must route around and under the seat.
2. Pull Through: Push the straps through to the backside. Push the remaining cover material through the gap.
3. ISOFIX: The cover includes a cutout flap for the ISOFIX anchors. You will need to push a little more material through the gap to ensure the ISOFIX cutout sits correctly.
4. Seat Tethers: Be careful of the handles or tethers used to hold the seat up; do not pull them too hard, as they can be plastic and break.
5. Securing the Back: Lift the seat up. The cover will buckle behind the seat. Pull the cover material from the back side to take out slack along the sides.
6. Connecting Straps:
   • The bungee cord on the sides should be looped together underneath the seat. Make sure they do not interfere with the latch attachment points.
   • The remaining straps must be routed to the front. Run them through the buckles (the same type used on the front seats). Due to the tight space, the buckles might be slightly turned to the side.
   • Tuck the extra strap slack around the seat structure. Ensure the straps are not routed too close to the seat latch mechanism.

Rear Back Rest Installation (Larger Seat Side)

This side is larger and typically has two zippers.

1. Seat Belt: This seat cover must route through the middle seat belt. This is why the cover can be flayed open completely on one side.
2. Positioning: Get the cover around the headrest posts first. Ensure the seat belt is on the correct side.
3. Zipping: Zip the back up. Pull the two sides of the zipper together as you zip to avoid straining the zipper and causing a misalignment. If the two main zippers meet in the middle, zipping the inner one first may relieve tension on the outer one.
4. Cup Holder Flap: This cover includes a specific feature for the fold-down cup holder/armrest. You must pull the flap open and tuck the material down. The zipper covers this when stored.
5. Velcro/Tucking: Just like the other side, expose the Velcro and tuck the material securely toward the back. Decide whether to tuck or cut the protective cloth strip covering the Velcro.

Rear Bottom Cushion Installation (Larger Seat Side)

1. Straps: Disconnect the three straps (one for the middle seat, two for the outer sections).

2. Middle Seat Belt: This cover has a small Velcro opening to go around the middle seat belt buckle.

3. Pulling Through: Pull the straps out first. Push the cover material through the gap. Ensure the little lip of the cover is secured over the front of the seat before pulling too much slack through the back.

4. Connecting Straps:

   • Connect the elastic bands (bungee) on the sides.
   • Route the remaining buckle straps to the back. Use the buckles to tighten them.
   • The middle strap is the hardest to access because there is little gap in the plastic. You may need to pass it through a small hole or gap to the side and let it slip back toward the center for attachment.
   • The outer strap access is usually easy to see.

5. Final Tension Check: Check the front of the seat. You should see the gap between the cushion and the back rest become very small as you pull the slack out. This ensures a taut, professional look.

6. ISOFIX Access: If you plan to use the ISOFIX points, the Velcro flap must be pulled out. When not in use, the cover tucks deep into the gap, hiding the attachment points.

Rear Headrests

The headrests are the final step. All covers are labeled.

1. Middle Headrest: The middle headrest is squishy, so you will need to shape the cover as you install it to ensure the final look is proper. Notice that the stands are offset; ensure the cover matches this offset.
2. Outer Headrests: These are labeled "rear side." They fit either passenger or driver side. When installing, notice the factory seam is toward the front, with more material on the back. The EKR cover follows this same factory pattern.
3. Zipper Best Practice: When zipping any headrest, help the zipper by pushing the material together with your hands. Do not force the zipper to pull the material closed, as this creates a strain and can cause a wavy seam.

Final Review and Conclusion

The EKR seat covers are a worthwhile upgrade for your 2025 Toyota 4Runner SR5, especially if you have factory cloth seats. Once the full installation is complete, you gain peace of mind knowing your original seats are protected from spills, sweat, and stains. The detailed fit of the covers makes the interior look clean and finished.

If you are a frequent gym-goer or simply use your vehicle heavily, these covers quickly pay for themselves by saving your factory seats from permanent damage. The time spent on the installation process results in long-lasting interior protection.

EKR offers many patterns and fabrics to suit your personal needs. If you want more videos and information on the 2025 Toyota 4Runner, look for resources provided by StickerFab.

Shop the best discounts of the year from StickerFab.  A wide variety of decals, stickers, overlays, inlays for your 2021+ Ford Bronco, 2024+ Land Cruiser, 2024+ Toyota Tacoma, 2025+ Toyota 4Runner, and more.

A large selection of other aftermarket accessories as well!

Upgrade Your 2025 Toyota 4Runner: Rally Armor Mud Flap Installation Guide

The 2025 Toyota 4Runner is a great SUV. But if you have an SR5 model, you might notice it lacks factory mud flaps. Even other 4Runner models often come with small, hard plastic mud guards. These stock parts offer little protection. Installing Rally Armor mud flaps changes this. They provide much better coverage and protection for your vehicle and others on the road. This guide walks you through the installation process.

Click here to purchase!

Why Rally Armor Mud Flaps Are a Smart Choice

Rally Armor mud flaps are different from standard mud guards. They offer superior protection and durability. This is especially true for the 2025 Toyota 4Runner.

Superior Coverage for Any Tire Setup

Original equipment manufacturer (OEM) mud flaps are often small. They may not cover larger wheels and tires. Many 4Runner owners upgrade their tires for better off-road performance or a custom look. Rally Armor mud flaps give greater coverage. They protect your vehicle from dirt and debris. This means less mud and gravel flying onto your paint, even with bigger tires.

Built to Last and Flex

The material used in Rally Armor mud flaps is unique. It is a special blend that works perfectly for mud flaps.

• Heavy enough to knock down dirt and debris. This keeps it from spraying onto your car or other vehicles.
• Light and flexible enough to bend. If you hit something while off-roading, the mud flap will give way. It can fold without breaking. This is a huge benefit compared to stiff plastic guards.

Rally Armor also designs custom brackets. These brackets hold the mud flaps firmly in place. They keep the mud flaps straight. This prevents awkward angles. The mud flaps sit perfectly straight down and side-to-side once installed.

Tools You Will Need

Before you start, gather your tools. Having everything ready makes the installation go smoothly.

• 1/4-inch ratchet
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• Screwdriver with adapter socket
  • Phillips head bit
  • Flathead bit (for removing factory plastic fasteners)

Preparing for Your Mud Flap Installation

Good preparation saves time and trouble. Follow these steps before you begin installing.

Check Your Parts Inventory

Your Rally Armor mud flaps come with instructions. They also include a full list of parts.

1. Open the box. Lay out all the parts.
2. Compare them to the inventory list.
3. Check for missing parts. Sometimes, a manufacturer might leave out a piece.
4. Contact customer service if anything is missing. Do this before you get deep into the installation.

Review the Diagrams

The instructions include diagrams. Look at all of them carefully. Pay special attention to the exploded diagram on the back. This diagram shows how all the fasteners and parts fit together. It helps you understand the alignment before you start.

Remove Factory Mud Guards (If Equipped)

If your 4Runner has factory mud guards, you must remove them first.

1. Use a flathead screwdriver.
2. Carefully pry out the plastic fasteners that hold the factory mud guards.
3. Remove the entire factory mud guard.

Installing the Front Mud Flaps

You will install the front mud flaps on the passenger side first. This guide focuses on the passenger side. You will then repeat these steps for the driver's side.

Remove Factory Bolts

1. Locate the four fasteners holding the fender liner.
2. Use a 10mm socket and your ratchet to remove them. This is easier than using a Phillips head screwdriver.
3. If you save factory hardware, put these bolts in a separate box. Keep them away from the new hardware.

Install Foam Spacers

Foam spacers ensure the mud flap sits flat. This prevents it from bowing out.

1. Clean the area where the bolts were removed. Make sure it is free of dirt.
2. Take one of the smaller foam spacers. Remove its backing.
3. Align the spacer over a bolt hole. Ensure it is centered. You may need a flashlight to see the hole clearly.
4. Repeat for the other three holes.
5. Take the larger foam piece. Test fit it first. Then remove its backing and apply it.

Insert Clip and Front Spacer

One hole requires a special clip.

1. Push the fender liner back slightly.
2. Insert the clip over the hole. You will hear a click when it seats correctly.
3. Make sure the fat part of the clip faces towards the rear of the vehicle.
4. Place a small spacer on the front side of this clip. Center it as much as possible.

Prepare the Front Bracket

You will use a bracket labeled BMF96/RE.

1. Clean the surface of the bracket.
2. Apply the provided sticker to the bracket. This sticker helps hide the silver bracket under the vehicle.

Attach the Bracket to the Vehicle

1. Locate the factory bolt that screws into a plastic piece.
2. Remove this factory bolt.
3. Position the BMF96/RE bracket. The stud on the bracket should be on the high side. Do not flip the bracket backwards.
4. Screw the bracket into place using the same factory bolt you just removed.
5. Do not fully tighten this bolt yet. Keep it loose enough to adjust the bracket. You will tighten it fully at the end. Make sure the bracket can move in and out slightly. This lets you adjust how the mud flap lays.

Attach the Mud Flap to the Bracket

1. Take a Rally Armor mud flap. The logo side faces outwards. The mud flap attaches to the side opposite the logo.
2. Use the small plastic bolts, plastic nuts, and plastic washers.
3. Push a plastic bolt through the mud flap and the bracket.
4. Place a plastic washer on the other side.
5. Screw on a plastic nut. The nuts face the logo side of the mud flap.
6. Hand-tighten these fasteners for now. You will tighten them more later for final alignment.

Secure the Mud Flap to the Vehicle Body

Now, attach the top of the mud flap to the fender liner.

1. At the very top hole, use a 1.5-inch screw and plastic washer. Hand-tighten it into the foam spacer.
2. For the next hole down, use another 1.5-inch screw and plastic washer. Align it carefully.
3. For the hole below that, use another 1.5-inch screw and plastic washer.
4. For the small stud, use a plastic washer and a stainless steel lock nut. You may need to push the mud flap out a little to align this.
5. For the last hole, use a 1-inch stainless steel screw and plastic fastener.

Final Adjustments and Tightening (Front)

Before tightening everything, check the mud flap's position.

1. Consider your tire width. If you have wide tires, you might want the mud flap to poke out more. If your tires are stock or less wide, push the mud flap all the way in.
2. Make sure the mud flap is straight up and down. Ensure the bottom edge runs horizontally with the ground.
3. Once happy with the position, hand-tighten the plastic bolts on the mud flap.
4. Tighten the 12mm lock nut on the stud.
5. Use a Phillips head screwdriver or your ratchet to tighten the screws into the plastic. Do not overtighten. These screws go into plastic and foam spacers. Overtightening can cause the mud flap to bow out.
6. Tighten the 10mm bolt holding the mounting bracket to the vehicle. Make it nice and tight.

Your front mud flap installation is now complete.

Installing the Rear Mud Flaps

Move to the rear of the vehicle to install the rear mud flaps.

Remove Rear Plastic Fasteners

1. Locate the two small plastic fasteners at the rear.
2. Remove them. You will replace them with new hardware.
3. Take the new hardware provided. It includes a clip with a small screw. Remove and discard the small screw. You only need the clip.
4. Push the clip into the holes where you removed the fasteners. This creates a secure point for new screws.

Replace Inner Bolt

1. Get under the vehicle.
2. Locate the inner bolt.
3. Remove this bolt. You will use a new one provided in the kit.

Prepare and Attach Rear Bracket

You will use a bracket labeled BMF88-1.

1. This bracket has a stud on the high side. It also has a spacer.
2. You will use the elongated hole on the bracket, not the perfect circle.
3. Take a 1-inch stainless steel screw.
4. Place a plastic washer on the screw.
5. From the underside of the vehicle, screw the new bolt through the elongated hole and into the vehicle.
6. Leave this bolt loose. You need to install a foam pad behind the bracket.

Install Rear Foam Pad

1. Clean the area directly behind the bracket.
2. Take the provided foam pad.
3. Pull the bracket forward slightly.
4. Position the foam pad behind the bracket.
5. Push the bracket back over the foam pad.

Attach Mud Flap to Rear Bracket

1. Take a rear mud flap. Identify the side with injection-molded circles. Face these circles against the vehicle for a cleaner look.
2. Align the mud flap with the bracket.
3. For the top hole, use a 1.5-inch screw and a plastic washer.
4. For the other main hole, use another 1.5-inch screw and a plastic washer.
5. Do not tighten these screws fully yet. You need to adjust the alignment.
6. For the inner stud, use a plastic washer and a stainless steel lock nut.

Final Adjustments and Tightening (Rear)

1. Step back and look at the mud flap from the rear of the vehicle.
2. Ensure it hangs vertically and straight.
3. If you want the mud flap to stick out less, gently push it inward while tightening.
4. Use your Phillips head screwdriver or ratchet to tighten all the screws. Remember, they screw into plastic, so do not overtighten.
5. Make sure everything is tightened down evenly. Check for any loose parts.
6. Double-check the alignment one last time.

Conclusion

Installing Rally Armor mud flaps on your 2025 Toyota 4Runner is a great upgrade. These mud flaps offer superior protection compared to factory options. Their durable, flexible material handles both road debris and off-road bumps. The detailed installation process ensures a custom fit.

Once installed, step back and admire your work. The mud flaps improve your vehicle's look and function. They are also ready to handle any larger wheels and tires you might add in the future. Enjoy your enhanced 4Runner!

You can find these specific Rally Armor mud flaps for your 2025 and newer Toyota 4Runner at StickerFab.

Upgrade Your 2025 4Runner: Installing the Wolfbox G900 TriPro Bumper Camera

Do you own a 2025 Toyota 4Runner SR5 and want a top-notch digital mirror and dash camera? Many drivers look for ways to improve their vehicle's tech. Some start with cheaper cameras to save money. But these often fail quickly. A common issue is the screen getting dimmer until it no longer works, even if it still records. If you're tired of unreliable cameras, it's time for an upgrade.

This guide covers installing the Wolfbox G900 TriPro Bumper Edition into a 2025 Toyota 4Runner. The Wolfbox G900 TriPro offers a high-quality camera system that acts as an ultimate digital mirror. This install will make your camera look like it came right from the factory.

What's in the Wolfbox G900 TriPro Kit?

The Wolfbox G900 TriPro kit comes with many parts. These parts help with a smooth setup.

You get:

• The main camera unit.
• A GPS module.
• A front bumper camera.
• A rear bumper camera.
• A trim tool.
• License plate mounts.
• Zip ties.
• Small wire holders.
• An AC adapter.

Important Note: Make sure to get the hardwire kit if you do not use the Donggar Pro power adapter. The kit also includes rubber straps to fit the camera over your original mirror. However, for the Toyota 4Runner, the Model 190 OEM Style Arm is highly recommended. This arm helps your install look factory-made.

Choosing the Right Mount: Why the Model 190 Arm?

The Wolfbox G900 TriPro comes with an insert. This insert shows all features like the lens, fasteners, and ports. You will remove the original fasteners and rubber straps. These parts allow you to strap the camera over your existing mirror.

Instead, you use a replacement arm. Remove the small rubber pieces on the back of the camera. Underneath, you will find Phillips head screws. Use these to attach the back plate of the camera to the new arm.

The Model 190 OEM style bracket works well on Toyota vehicles like the Land Cruiser and 4Runner. It is better than other models, like the Model 1 often used in a Bronco. Toyota vehicles have large plastic covers behind the mirrors. If you use a Model 1, these covers would block too much of the camera's view. The Model 190 arm drops the camera down just enough to avoid this blockage.

You will reuse the four screws from the original mirror. You will also use four screws supplied with the 190 arm. The arm kit often provides five screws, just in case one gets lost. Keep all leftover parts, including the rubber straps. If you move the camera to a different vehicle later that does not have an OEM style mount, you can switch back to the universal setup.

Attach the arm to the base plate. Make sure it faces the correct way. The camera should be upright. It will then slide onto your windshield mount.

Adjusting Your Camera View with a Double Hinge

Wolfbox kits offer many accessories. One key feature is a double hinge. This double hinge helps you get the camera in the perfect spot. A single hinge only lets you adjust the camera in one way. The double hinge offers much more movement and control.

To add the double hinge, take off two screws from the single hinge. Then, remove the single hinge and screw on the double hinge. This extra hinge is especially helpful for the rear camera.

For the rear camera, you want it as close to the glass as possible. This prevents glare from inside the vehicle. It also helps avoid seeing the defroster lines on the glass. The double hinge lets you tuck the camera high up and close to the window without it hitting the rear hatch or glass.

In the 4Runner, when mounting the rear camera high, the windshield wiper blade might not reach that area. This can leave dirt or water on the glass. One idea is to use a glass treatment in that spot. This may help water move away from the camera's view. Mounting the camera on the outside is an option, but outside areas can also get dirty. Keeping it mounted high gives a good rear view. If it gets dirty, rolling the glass down and up can help clean the area with the rubber seal.

Rear Camera Mounting Details

The headliner has plastic fasteners holding it up. The acrylic rear camera mounting plate from StickerFab has a hole. This hole lets you push the fastener straight through the original hole. The plate also has adhesive to stick firmly to the headliner.

You can then screw in the double hinge. Wolfbox provides two small screws for this. Be careful not to lose them as they are tiny. An adhesive pad is also an option, but the screws offer a firmer hold.

Set the camera to the right angle. Then tighten the screws. Do not overtighten them, especially if using an acrylic plate, as it can strip. You might not know the final camera position until the main camera is fully installed and turned on. Then you can make final adjustments for straightness.

Route the cable to the side and tuck it behind the mount. This helps keep it from being pulled out. For this installation, the wire runs down the passenger side and up to the camera.

Removing Your Old Mirror and Setting Up the New One

You need to access the area behind your original mirror. This is true whether you use an OEM style adapter or strap the new mirror over the old one. You need to route wires through the center.

To remove the plastic cover behind the mirror, slide it down the windshield. Do not pull it straight out. Apply pressure and push down on both sides. To remove the small center portion, pull it towards you.

You need a Torx screwdriver to remove the OEM arm. The new aftermarket arm uses a Phillips screwdriver. The mirrors simply pull up from the mount. Then, you install the new mirror over the OEM mount. Tighten the Phillips screw.

The OEM style replacement arm places the camera so your sun visor can still be used without hitting the mirror.

Powering Your Wolfbox Camera: Hardwire Kit vs. Donggar Pro

The Wolfbox hardwire kit provides power to the camera. It comes with many different add-a-fuse types. These are universal, so your car will likely use one of them. Add-a-fuses protect your car's original fuses. If the camera system has a short circuit, the add-a-fuse will blow, protecting your car's electrical system. The most common cause of a short is wires rubbing against trim and wearing through their insulation.

In the 2025 4Runner (and 2024+ Tacoma), fuses are under the glove box. You push clips to drop the panel down. However, add-a-fuses can make it hard to put the cover back on. You would use an accessory power fuse and a 12V constant fuse. Then, you run wires up behind the dashboard, through the pillar, and to the camera.

The Donggar Pro Advantage

Modern Toyotas often have an OEM dash camera option. Because of this, they have a five-pin harness that provides ground, constant, and accessory power. This harness is under the glove box, tucked behind a carpeted area. Pull it straight down from the back, not the front. Pulling from the front can break the tabs.

The harness has three wires:

• Ground wire: This wire is a little lower than the others and about one pin from the outer edge.
• Constant power: This wire is on the very outer edge, next to another wire. It is often red.
• Accessory power: This wire is in the middle of the other two.

You can cut off the hardwire kit's add-a-fuses, strip the wires, and use posit taps to connect to these wires. If the wires are hard to reach, pigtails that plug into the harness could be an option. You could solder these to your wires or use posit taps on them.

For this installation, the Dongar Pro is used. It's a plug-and-play solution from Dongar Technologies. It has a five-pin harness that uses three wires. You simply plug it in, connect it to the Wolfbox, and you're good to go. You can find the Dongar Pro at StickerFab or Amazon.

The Dongar Pro provides constant power to the mirror. This allows for different parking modes:

• Ignition mode: The camera turns on and off with your car.
• Infinity mode: Records until the battery drops to 11.8 volts. This keeps recording as long as possible but can drain your battery over time.
• 4-hour mode: Records for up to 4 hours after the car turns off. It still has low voltage protection. If the battery hits 11.8 volts before 4 hours, it will cut off. This is a good balance for gym trips or grocery runs.

The Donggar Pro uses a USBC port. You will need a USBC to USBC cable to connect it to the G900 Pro. Hide any extra wire behind the mirror.

Routing Cables for GPS and Rear Camera

With power set up, route the other wires. The GPS module should sit on the dash, pointing to the sky, for best signal. Run its wire up the A-pillar and over to the main camera.

When tucking the cable behind the A-pillar trim, if wires don't go deep enough, you can remove the caps from the handle. Use a 10mm or 12mm socket to take out the bolts. This lets you pull the plastic trim down. Then you can stuff the wires out of sight.

The rear camera wire uses a USBC connector for the camera. It also has a wire for reverse lines. If your 4Runner already has reverse lines in its OEM backup camera, you don't need to connect this. Otherwise, connect it to the reverse signal wire (the one that powers your reverse lights). This will show lines on your camera when you reverse. The rear camera wire is very long, so untangle it first.

Route the GPS and rear camera wires up behind the mirror mount. Bring them out through a hole in the trim piece. Plug the rear camera into its USBC port on the main camera. The GPS plug is right next to it.

Running the Rear Camera Wire Through the Cabin

To run the rear camera wire along the top of the vehicle, pull down the rubber door seals. This allows you to tuck the wire behind the headliner. Pull the A-pillar back slightly to push the wire through to the other side.

Next, run the wire behind the B-pillar, pulling it straight to the back. Tuck the wire behind the headliner. Later, put the rubber trim back into place.

Near the rear hatch, pull the trim back with a few quick jerks. Be careful not to lose any fasteners. Connect the rear camera. You can turn on the system to check the signal. Then, run the wire up and through the headliner, tucking any extra wire there. Avoid stuffing it near the seatbelt, as it can get tangled.

Pull the headliner down a bit. Give the rear panel a quick jolt. Run the wire behind the headliner, down into the gap, and out the front of the trim. Then, tuck it into the window trim. Use the supplied trim tool to push wires deeper if they show. Continue tucking it behind the S-pillar and gather any extra wire there. Pop the trim back in.

Bunch up any extra wire neatly by running strands back and forth in loops. Stuff it into the headliner. Make sure the rear camera signal works once everything is connected. The camera takes a few seconds to boot up. Once confirmed, push the rubber seals back into place, covering the headliner.

Installing the Front Bumper Camera

The Wolfbox G900 TriPro uses a Sarvis 2 Sony sensor. This is an upgrade from older G900 models, offering better picture quality. The front bumper camera is a key feature.

Mount the front camera high on the bumper, rather than in a lower, dirtier area. This location is similar to where some stock cameras are found on other vehicles. The camera can be flipped digitally inside the cabin if needed.

The camera can be mounted using screws or with 3M adhesive tape. If using the 3M tape, make sure the temperature is above 55 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 72 hours for a strong bond. Clean the area before mounting. Move the camera as far forward as possible to avoid the bumper blocking the view. Center it and push down hard to secure the 3M adhesive. The camera will register on the G900 display once plugged in.

Wolfbox cameras allow you to adjust the view up and down for all cameras. The rear camera also has a zoom feature. Set the view to see as much as possible, both far down and far up. The main front-facing camera will capture the rest.

Running the Front Camera Wire

Running the front camera wire through the firewall might seem hard, but it's manageable. You need to route it through a rubber boot in the firewall. Make an incision on the top of the boot, slightly off-center to avoid the main wiring harness.

Use a wire hanger or a long screwdriver to push the wire through. Tape the camera wire to the tool. Then, push it through the boot.

Inside the cabin, on the driver's side, move the carpet back near the pedals. You will see the rubber gasket and the main harness. Pull the camera wire through into the cabin.

Route this wire up through the headliner, over to the A-pillar, and behind it. Remove the rubber door seal on the driver's side and run the wire all the way down. Tuck the wires inside the trim. Then pop the trim back into place.

Under the hood, remove the plastic panel by pushing down on the clips and pulling them out. Before reusing, reset the clips by pushing them through completely. Then place them in the hole and push them flat.

Route the camera wire along the front, avoiding horns, extra wiring, and active shutters. These shutters move, so keep the wire clear. There is often a hole near a grill tab where you can reach through the active shutters to grab the wire and keep it forward.

Connect the camera wire. Replace the panel cover. Bundle up any extra wire and secure it with zip ties.

Final Assembly and Settings

Tilt the mirror down. Gather all wires in the center. Reverse the removal process: push the mirror up against the windshield with even pressure on both sides until it clips into place.

Ensure there is enough slack in the cables for the trim piece. Slide the trim piece down, then push the top back. The Donggar Pro often comes with a small mounting bracket with 3M adhesive. Clip the module into it. Mount it in a spot where you can still access its settings tab.

Adjust your mirror, and you're all done with the physical installation.

Basic Camera Features and Settings

When the camera is off, you can use it as a normal mirror. If glare is an issue, matte screen protectors can reduce it. However, with a matte protector, it won't work as a normal mirror when off.

Basic camera functions are simple:

• Scroll left/right to cycle through camera views.
• Tap and slide your finger up/down on any camera view to adjust it.
• On the rear view, you can zoom in and out. It's best to keep it zoomed all the way out.

Important Tip: Vehicles in the camera mirror may appear farther away than they are. Always use your side view mirrors to judge distances accurately, especially when you first start using the digital mirror.

To access settings, tap the screen and select "settings." There are many options. One quick setting to adjust is daylight saving time to get the clock right. Other videos can guide you through settings like parking mode if you use a hardwire kit instead of the Dongar.

When setting up your rear camera, push it back as far as possible. Make sure it does not hit the liftgate. Being close to the glass prevents glare from inside the vehicle and reduces the visibility of defroster lines.

If this guide helped you, or if you want to get your own Wolfbox G900 TriPro Bumper Edition, use the direct link: Wolfbox G900 Tripro Bumper Edition. You can also find it on Amazon. Use code WBBESTGEAR for extra savings! For other useful accessories mentioned, check out the Dongar Pro or the Acrylic Rear Camera Mounting Plate at StickerFab. You can also find the Dongar Pro on Amazon.  The 190 arm is also on Amazon.

These are two of the most important and popular storage items that I have in my own Bronco.  I use them every single day.

They only take a few minutes to install.  Knock off this simple project and reap the reward of ultra convenience.

Check out the products here:

Sunglass holder

Door bins

Here are two of the first options to hit the market for the 2024 Toyota Land Cruiser.  Since there are no real changes for 2025, they will fit those model year vehicles as well.

One steering wheel cover is ultra easy to install, and it's going to protect your OEM bits.   However, it's obviously a cover and does not cover the inner portion which usually doesn't see a lot of wear anyways. The second one requires a DIY install that can take a couple of hours.  The results are fantastic and some may think you actually changed out your entire steering wheel.

Check out the products here:

https://www.stickerfab.com/collections/2024-land-cruiser?sort_by=relevance&q=steering

Resetting the multimedia display can be a common task for any vehicle equipped with Apple Carplay or Android Auto.  This is a simple process to perform in your 2024+ Toyota Land Cruiser.  Since there are no real changes for 2025, this will work on that model year as well.